Meehan's Miniatures Blog

Winter Pruning and Shaping of Deciduous Trees

Notes from Martha Meehan's Lecture at Valley View on February 1, 2025

Preparation

• Bring the tree indoors 24 hours prior to performing any work.
• Take before and after pictures to document changes.
• Thoroughly examine the tree for dead and diseased branches:
  • Dead wood may enhance the tree’s appearance and can be treated with wood hardener.
  • Remove other dead or diseased branches as necessary.

Pruning Process

1. Determine Key Structural Elements:
   • Style, size, front, and branch placement should guide your pruning decisions.
   • Identify the new apex by selecting a branch that grows upward from the trunk.
   • General rule: the height of the tree should be approximately six times the diameter of the trunk.
2. Pruning Technique:
   • Start with lower branches to establish width.
   • Work upward to maintain shape and style.
   • Prune back to a leaf bud that is facing the desired direction of growth.
   • In the upper portion of the tree, if choosing between a thick or thin branch, remove the thick branch to maintain proportion.
   • Finalize the new apex and adjust as needed.
3. Wiring Considerations:
   • Wiring can be done if the tree is dry and not frozen.
   • Carefully shape the trunk and branches, keeping taper and reverse taper in mind.

Fertilization Guidelines

• Wait until mid-to-late March before applying fertilizers.
• Types of Fertilizers:
  • Organic fertilizers work once the soil warms up and tend to make cells more flexible.
  • Chemical fertilizers work immediately; if using, apply at half strength.

Additional Considerations

• Potting of outdoor material can begin as early as late February to get a head start on spring growth.
• Protect potted trees from cold winter winds.
• Remember to take after pictures once pruning and shaping are completed.

These guidelines provide a structured approach to winter pruning and shaping, ensuring healthy growth and aesthetic refinement of deciduous trees.

Special thanks to John 'Bill' Peterson for taking notes and providing them for use.

We get numerous questions from beginners as well as seasoned Bonsai hobbyists, in an effort to educate more people about growing, training, and care of bonsai we will be posting the questions and answers on this bog. If you have a question please either e-mail it to the blog, or to our website info@meehansminiatures.com.

Q: I purchased a grewia occidentalis from you guys a few weeks ago and during this recent rockin’ heat wave, it’s begun to drop a lot of leaves. Should I be worried? It’s been watered properly (I think), and there are no visible parasites.

A:Move it outside to the heat and bright but not direct all day sun. Allow to dry between watering, pull off any lousy looking leaves. I have overwatered some myself just recently in the heat. During that sort of heat treat them like it is the other winter, no food, dry between waterings, as much light, and humiduty as possible, and they don’t mind the heat but they don’t like the airconditioning. Just a final note the Grewia is doing fine.

Q: I have been reading several articles about Maple care, and they state that a Maple should be defoliated in the mid-summer. I bought two Pre Bonsai Maples from you (Trident and Palmatum) and am about to pot them. Should I defoliate them as well or is this just too much stress for the plants? Or should I hold off on potting at this time and just defoliate? Is this even the correct time for defoliation? Any advice you could offer Martha, would be greatly appreciated! I will follow whatever schedule you suggest.

A:You CAN defoliate at this time of year but you don’t have to. Doing so will force the tree to use it failsafe buds, and the second set of leaves will come out smaller, it will also help to increase the number of twiggy branches in the long run. If that is what you want then you can defoliate now, it is a little late but they should be fine. Typically we defoliate after all of the leaves are full size (generally June), but you still have plenty of growing season left for them to re-foliate. After you defoliate keep in shade, you may want to cut back on your watering slightly as the tree won’t be using quite as much as it did with full foliage. Mist at least once a day if not twice.

Where repotting is concerned wait until early fall (Sept.) or late summer when the night time temps are in the 50’s or at most 60’s. Just make sure you can repot before Oct. so that the trees have time to establish and new growth has hardened off before winter. Potting in the fall is great it gets you a step ahead of the spring rush.